Scars and gashes can be filled with stick shellac of the proper color, as explained under the restoration of veneer . Some craftsmen pare off slivers of identical wood from underneath and glue them into deep, long gashes. Sadly Scarred Table Edge Fig. 7.14. This type of repair may go deeper in more serious scars and blemishes. Figure 7.14 indicates several simple possibilities for repairing, or at least disguising, various relatively deep bruises and cuts. When the gluedin blocks have set in their mortises, they can be worked down to the level of the surrounding surface, then sanded. In the case of damaged corners, it is sometimes feasible to chamfer off the damaged edge, the new design being balanced by chamfering the opposite corner. In other cases it will be found more advantageous to halve on a corner piece of veneer, as in Figure 7.15, trimming the edges flush after the glue has set. Splinters not yet entirely separated from the piece can be glued and clamped back in place, then sanded smooth. Loose Joints. Many an otherwise damaged chair or table has been consigned to the attic because its legs have become so loose as to render it dangerous. The same is often true of the stretchers and backs. The most satisfactory method of repairing rickety furniture is to take it apart, remove all the old glue, then reglue and clamp it tightly. Before undertaking this necessarily drastic action, however, let us review other Possibilities. Fig. 7.15. Repairs. 396 FURNITURE MAKING AND CABINET WORK Assuming that a thorough examination reveals no loose screws or other fastenings, it may be discovered that the weak legs can be satisfactorily reinforced by means of corner blocks screwed into both rails and legs. In the same manner wide diagonal braces, carefully mitered to fit snugly against the chamfered edges of wobbly table legs, can be screwed firmly to both legs and aprons. Another method sometimes employed to tighten loose socket joints is to apply liquid glue around the crack and gently rock the loose piece until no more glue can be "absorbed," assisting the process by probing with a toothpick. When a grease gun is available, glue can often be forced into loose joints by drilling a small diagonal hole in some inconspicuous location, preferably on the underside. A wood screw that will fit into the hole is then drilled lengthwise through the center, and soldered on the end of the regular grease fitting of the gun. After the screw is turned a short distance into the diagonal hole, liquid glue can be forced into the weak joint, as in Figure 7.16. When the leg socket in a chair has become hopelessly enlarged, it can be bored out and a wooden plug inserted as shown in Figure 7.17. The plug, in turn, is bored for a close fit by the leg tenon, after all old glue has been removed. In order to center the lead screw of an auger bit when funnelshaped leg, arm, back, and spindle holes in old furniture are being enlarged, a dowel is first selected that will fit loosely in the hole.