Fill cracks and sand smooth with 30 abrasive. 4 Apply intermediate coat of half and half undercoater and enamel. 5 Sand lightly with 30 abrasive. 6. Apply finish coat of enamel. . 7 For a semigloss luster, rub to hard smoothness with 3F pumice stone and rubbing oil. 8 bor a high polish use rottenstone and water (see section devoted to varnish finish). Paint Finish. Frequently constructed from cypress, pine or redwood, outdoor furniture must be protected from the elements by a tough, elastic film that will not chalk off under careless handling. These slick or porous woods require a priming coat whose adhesive qualities are sufficiently tenacious to provide a good bond. Modern housepaint primers contain tung oil, which needs no thinning as it comes from the can. Aluminum paint or shellac should be used to close end grain and to cover knots. 318 FURNITURE MAKING AND CABINET WORK Unless a sloppy or dirty coat has been applied, it is not necessary to sand between paint coats. The second coat should be a good grade of exterior home paint, hardened by zinc oxide up to one third of the pigment. A final coat of the exterior paint, without thinning, will complete the job. In no case should paint be applied over an old enamel finish or vice versa; owing to their different expansion rates, the extreme changes in temperature to which outdoor furniture is subjected will result in cracking and crazing of the exterior coat. A final coat of exterior spar varnish will stop the chalking and weatherproof the surface. Outdoor furniture which will be given some protection from the weather can be finished satisfactorily with paints designed for interior use. If the furniture is to be used on a covered patio, or if it is carried inside during showers and stored indoors during winter months, the extreme weatherresisting qualities of exterior house paint are not required. On wooden furniture which is to be given an opaque finish that will conceal the wood, interior paints, such as are designed for bathroom and kitchen finishes, will be satisfactory in most cases. This is true of even the watermixed latex paints so widely used in interior finishing. When it is not desired to conceal the grain of the wood, an essentially weatherproof finish can be given to outdoor furniture by the application, first, of a transparent wood sealer and second, of one or more coats of goodquality spar varnish or boat varnish. If the wood is smooth enough and clean, simply apply the sealer according to the manufacturer's directions. Sanding before application of the varnish should not be necessary unless the wood is rough or dirty. Heavy wooden furniture such as Adirondack chairs and the familiar redwood picnic sets, will weather to an unexciting brownish gray unless it is protected with a coating. A special finish is obtainable for redwood which will maintain the natural color or something that resembles it. On other woods a mixture of one part boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine may be brushed on when the wood is new and renewed about twice a year.