Burnt varnish is in reality crushed rosin melted in a water bath and thinned with varnish in the ratio of 6 parts of rosin to 1 part varnish. After being well mixed and cooled it will keep indefinitely. As previously stated, a varnish base finish flows best at a minimum temperature of 700. Unless applied over a shellac coat, the initial varnish coating should be thinned in the proportion of 1 part of turpentine to 6 parts of varnish. Only enough should be mixed for the job in hand and the coat allowed to dry overnight. Although a second coat will suffice for a surface that has been properly filled and sealed, three and even four coats are commonly applied to fine cabinetwork. As has been repeatedly emphasized, a coat of finish must never be applied before the preceding coat is completely dry. With varnishes of varying drying rates the classic test for hardness is by pressing with the thumbnail; if no impression is left on the varnish it is safe to apply the next coat. Some varnishes require as long as three days to dry. Varnish, like enamel, will not adhere to a glossy surface. Hence the first coat must be drysanded with a 50 garnet finishing paper, and thoroughly dusted. For this work new sandpaper should be scuffed by rubbing two sheets together to remove the sharp cutting edges. For turnings, headings, or panel corners and other difficult contours, 20 steel wool will prove a satisfactory substitute. The second and succeeding coats (exclusive of the final coat) can be success 324 FURNITURE MAKING AND CABINET WORK fully rubbed down with a 60 garnet waterproof paper or No. 1 pumice stone and water. After the gloss has been removed, the slush can be washed off with water, cleansed with a chamois skin, and allowed to dry out thoroughly. Polishing. After the Victorian reign of the highgloss "piano" finish, the more restrained satin finish has come into its own as the perfect blend for modern decorative effects. It is achieved on the final coat after a rubdown with No. FF pumice and water, bv employing rottenstone and oil to the surface when dry. In applying either pumice or rottenstone to a flat surface of fair size, it is advisable to use a sifter, converted from a discarded soap powder container, so that the entire (horizontal) surface can be sprinkled. The rubbing element is a piece of Jin. felt, preferably glued to a wood backing for uniformity of surface. The rubbing is done with the grain, and no additional powdered abrasive should be added as the rubbing progresses lest it lump up and cut into the work. For vertical surfaces the pumice or rottenstone must be applied directly to the felt. After being rubbed, the work is cleaned off with water and a soft damp cloth or chamois. Rottenstone does not cut into the finish but brings up its sheen when lubricated with a special paraffinbase rubbing oil, or a light motor oil thinned with benzine. For a high (piano) finish, water must be substituted for the oil lubricant with rottenstone.