The sealer may be shellac, shellac mixing lacquer, straight lacquer, or a special lacquer sanding sealer usually containing silex, which builds a level surface in one application equal to two ordinary lacquer coats. For the satin finish, a clear gloss lacquer is sprayed on and rubbed down as for a varnish finish; a better grade rubbing and polishing lacquer is available for this purpose. Flat lacquers produce a satin luster, without rubbing, which is more durable than the eggshell finish of the shortoil flat varnishes. Gloss and flat lacquer can be mixed in various proportions to produce any degree of sheen. Rubbing and polishing schedules are the same as for varnish. As previously mentioned, lacquer is thinned only with lacquer thinner. The spraying consistency should be checked by test patterns on wrapping paper and the liquid strained into the gun to prevent clogging by undetected dirt. The lacquerfinishing schedule is the same as for varnish, substituting three sprayed coats of lacquer for the three brushed (or sprayed) varnish coats without mterriiediate sanding, except in the case of dust or dirt deposits. Oil Finish. Less frequently employed in these days of improved, fastdrying furniture finishes is the linseed oil finish. Applied directly to the bare wood, an 0'1 finish is rubbed into the wood rather than on it, producing a soft, lustrous sheen like that of a gunstock, almost impervious to scratches. Like the original 326 FURNITURE MAKING AND CABINET WORK French polish, however, it is a handrubbed polish, which requires a series of applications over a considerable period of time. Assuming that the surface of the work has been thoroughly sanded and dusted, it is then moistened with a wet sponge or pad and dried quickly by playing the flame of a blowtorch over it. The raised grain is then sanded down lightly with a fine abrasive, dusted, and the process repeated until the grain or fuzz ceases to rise. In lieu of a blowtorch an electric laundry iron over a damp cloth can be used. When dry and thoroughly clean the surface is ready for its first oil coat. A pint of raw linseed oil should be sufficient for the average job. After it is thinned with 3 parts of turpentine, it can be brushed onto all surfaces and allowed to stand half an hour before the surplus is wiped off; it is then allowed to stand overnight. Meanwhile a pint of pure boiled linseed oil is left open but protected from dust to oxidize into as thick a "syrup" as possible. Next all end grains should be filled and sealed with a suitable shade of paste filler that has been thinned with equal parts of spar varnish and turpentine. After being towedoff and wiped, it is allowed to dry out another 12 hours. Once the filler is dry, a coat of the thickened boiled linseed oil can best be applied with the bare hands, working in small circles away from the body. A minimum of two additional coats, well rubbed in at 24hr intervals, should be applied, more if time and patience permit.