iiline Pigment in Aniline medium powder powder powder powder oil powder Solvent Water Diethylene Turpentine Denatured Turpentine Alcohol glycol Naphtha alcohol Naphtha Lacquer Ethylene Benzol Benzol thinner glycol Application Brush or Spray (best) Brush and Spray (only) Brush and Spray spray wipe wipe Grain Bad Slight None When humid None None raising (brushed) Bleeding None Slight Bad Bad None None Fading None None Some Bad None Slight Sealer coat Any choice Shellac wash Shellac wash Shellac wash Shellac wash Shellac wash (sprayed) Lacquer (sprayed) H FURNITURE FINISHING 333 fastdrying coating, which, if selected in the gloss type for a high polished final finish, or a flat type for the satin finish, will save considerable rubbing. Furthermore, lacquer when sprayed on in a mist coat will eliminate the need for a shellac sealer while contributing body to following lacquer coats. Full lacquer schedule follows: Fast Spraying Lacquer Schedule (with filler). 1. Spray NGR stain. Dry i hr. 2. Fill and wipe with fast drying paste filler. Dry 4 hr. 3. Spray sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. 4. Sand with 50 garnet and dust. 5. Spray coat of clear gloss lacquer. Dry 2 hr. 6. Spray coat of flat lacquer. bleaching A popular finish for furniture of modern design, bleaching retains the attractive grain patterns against an extremely pale background. While some pale woods such as maple and birch can be selected without streaks and given a blond finish by means of a pigment oil stain, darker woods such as mahogany or walnut require a thorough bleaching as the basis for Harvest Wheat (Swedish Modern), Heather and Tweed Mahogany, or Ambered, and Old World Walnut effects. For bleaching the lighter woods a saturated solution of oxalic acid in hot water will prove fairly effective. An efficient alkalizer for removing all traces of the acid in the pores consists of 1 oz. of borax dissolved in 1 qt. of water. Photographer's hypo can be substituted for the oxalic acid if desired. Neither of these acids, however, will satisfactorily bleach a dark walnut or deep red mahogany. A deeper bleaching job can be realized with commercial bleaches. These usually consist of two powerful bleaching solutions applied separately or premixed as directed by the manufacturer. Although it is possible to spray a bleaching solution, it is better to apply it with a fiber brush or sponge. Rubber gloves are a "must," even with oxalic acid, and if a rubber apron is not available, care should be exercised to prevent splashing. While not all commercial bleaches need be washed off with water, they must be allowed to dry out thoroughly so that the bleaching action will not break through succeeding coats. Like water stain, they will raise a fuzz which must be sanded smooth unless the wood was previously sponged and sanded. Once bleached, the finishing schedule follows the usual procedure. Listed below are some of the presently popular "blond" finishes, applied after bleaching: Harvest Wheat Mahogany.