The wiping and texturing process is accomplished with wadded pads of cheesecloth commencing in the center of the work. The liquid is worked out from the corners back into the cleanedout middle or "highlight" to blend the shading. The procedure is a gentle wiping operation, not a scrubbing, intended to leave a thin glaze of the shade and texture desired. Final distribution can be best accomplished by rubbing with the palm and fingers in a rotary motion, removing excess fluid from the hand as soon as it starts to smudge. When the glaze is thoroughly dry it should be protected with a coat of white shellac or waterwhite lacquer rubbed to a satin finish. Ordinary lacquer will yellow the glazed effect and orange shellac will deepen it considerably. Antiquing is merely another term for glazingand is descriptive of the intent, rather than the procedure of the operation. Whereas a shading glaze is frequently applied to opaque finishes including peasant painted effects, antiquing more commonly refers to a deliberate aging effect applied over a transparent, stained finish. The socalled "Old World finishes" depend to a great extent upon the antique aged effect conferred by a selected pigment wiping stain, which is partially removed by the same process, as was described for glazing. For mahogany, walnut, and oak, about 2 oz. of Vandyke brown to a half pint of boiled linseed oil thinned with 50 per cent turpentine will prove a satisfactory antique glazing mixture on mahogany or walnut reproductions of Georgian, Colonial, French Provincial or Swedish Provincial finishes. For a reddish honeytone maple, a half and half mixture of raw sienna and burnt umber should be substituted for the Vandyke brown, while for the brownish Pilgrim Maple burnt umber is used. Antique maple has come to refer to an Early American style of finish on an orangered background. The latter stain can be sealed with an orange shellac, then mellowed and aged with a warm wiping stain, highlighted in the worn areas. A dusty antique finish features the addition of powdered rottenstone to the antiquing mixture in the proportion of 1У2 oz of rottenstone to an equal amount of Vandyke brown in a quart of linseed oil and turpentine. This type of finish is usually applied to openpored woods such as oak, walnut, chestnut, or ash, which have been first "weathered" with a dark brown walnut or oak stain. A water stain containing У\ oz of mahogany brown darkened by У2 oz of nigrosine to a gallon of water will prove satisfactory. After being sealed, the pores can be left open or filled with dusty gray filler made of white filler paste darkened with raw umber. The filler, if used, is only partially removed by diagonal strokes, and the glaze or slush'is also wiped off roughly, so that the corners and crevices remain dark.' If wax is used as a final finish it should be darkened with brown or black pigments, and may also contain 1 oz. of powdered rottenstone to the pint for accentuating the dusty effect.